VIRGINIA MELCHOR

The fashion industry will most likely never be the same again. This new time has brought with it the necessary change of direction of a runaway sector and the rejection of a 'spidical' consumption destined to use and throw away. Confinement, teleworking, social distancing and the economic crisis have changed our way of relating to clothing through a more honest, deeper and more local consumption. It is no longer a question of accumulating, but of knowing how to choose. In addition, concern for the planet has driven second-hand fashion. Young people today resell, recycle, reuse... brand new is not so popular anymore. The clothing business with a previous life is going through a golden age, also in Bilbao, where since May there has been a must stop for those who enjoy going to find 'treasures': the 'vintage' store Picos Pardos, at number 26 on Calle Alameda Urquijo.

Behind this business is Diego Fernández, a 31-year-old Asturian who has lived in Madrid since he was a teenager. There he worked as a model for the shop of two friends, 'Picos Pardos Vintage', and he thought it would be a good idea to open a business with the same characteristics in Bilbao, where he has lived for four years. «I lived in Malasaña and although people dress very well here, it is true that you don't see so much modernity or diversity. But, luckily, I hardly have any competition, if you like 'vintage' clothes you have to come to my store”, he assures.

He was going to open 'Picos Pardos' in March of last year, but the covid-19 postponed his plans. "I had already brought my clothes from Madrid, I had set up the premises... I had everything ready to open the Monday before the state of alarm was declared," he points out. He took advantage of the confinement to make some improvements in the establishment and, finally, he raised the blind for the first time on May 14. The opening coincided at a time when fashion consumption is finally undergoing a radical change and interest in second-hand has grown. Clothes worn today are bought with pride, not shame. Gone are the days when wearing clothes with a previous life was frowned upon. «Many more girls buy me than boys, from 17 to 45 years old. I think the philosophy of my store fits perfectly with the times we are living in, people are increasingly aware of the planet».

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From the street, the fluorescent pink letters with the name of this small place attract attention, but once inside, customers are surprised by the selection of 'vintage' clothing that Diego makes. «I bring it from Europe, Asia or the United States, where there is more culture for second-hand fashion». It sells everything from dungarees or retro tracksuit jackets from Adidas or Nike to denim jackets or sweatshirts with constant nods to American culture. Printed shirts and blouses triumph, ideal for spring, and jeans. «The good thing about these stores is that people come not only to buy, but also to search. Maybe you want a T-shirt, but you start rummaging around and find a jacket, a sweater... it's like going to a flea market. Of course, with branded clothing: Dickies, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Nike, Adidas, Burberry... And at a more affordable price than a new garment. «I have from scarves for five euros or t-shirts for 15, to Levis jean jackets for 40 or a Burberry trench coat for 70 euros, which is the most expensive item in the store».

Diego supports young creators whenever he can. Hence, emerging firms occupy a prominent place in his store. There you can find everything from the customized jean jackets by the Madrid artist Laura Senses or the leather belts by the Bilbao brand Abarka to the designs with recycled clothing by Untxia or Psychoblock, two firms created by students of the LEINN (Entrepreneurial Leadership and Innovation) degree. from the University of Mondragon. For lovers of accessories, Diego offers belts, scarves, bags and some beret or hat, but he does not sell second-hand shoes "because people are still very reluctant."

Today the used clothing business moves at the click of a button. Diego does not yet have an online store, but receives orders through his store's profile on Instagram. "If someone notices a piece of clothing, my girl or I take photos of ourselves with it on and if she likes it, we'll send it to her," says this young entrepreneur, who today lives happily in the town with his partner and their dog, Bruna. Of course, do not try to show up at his shop before 11:30 a.m., because this passionate surfer gets up early to escape to the beach to catch waves. In these uncertain times, Diego acknowledges that he is not considering expanding his business, he is content with "surviving on a day-to-day basis." "It's a very strange stage, suddenly you have two good months and a bad one... with bumps, but we're still there." Nothing stops this Asturian who wanted to bring to Bilbao the modern and bohemian essence that captivated him in the Madrid neighborhood of Malasaña during his youth.