GLORIA SALGADO Madrid

New blood for the 'enfant terrible' of fashion. But not just anyone. Jean Paul Gaultier recovers his prêt-à-porter line with the help of young designers with two points in common, talent and transgressive vision, to revisit the icons of the house. Those chosen by the master are Marvin M'Toumo, Nicola Lecourt Mansion, the Brazilian jeweler Alan Crocetti, Ottolinger and the Cordovan Alejandro Gómez Palomo (Posadas, Córdoba, 1992), better known as Palomo Spain.

The five of them pour their own creative universe into the limited unisex collection 'Les Marins', in which the myth of Gaultier's sailor has a clear inclusive and collaborative mission, since each season young firms will rotate through the house's workshops French to cover their most recognizable pieces. Palomo versioned the sailor shirt, the corset and the jean pants, one of the most daring garments of the entire proposal. Made of organic cotton, with the 'Palomo loves Gaultier' logo embroidered in rhinestones on the hem, with a removable buttoned back, allowing underwear -or skin- to be exposed. The 750 euros that each pair costs have not been an impediment for them to run out shortly after going on sale.

A collaboration that makes 2021 even more special, the year in which Palomo Spain celebrates five years as a firm, in which it has already reached a balance in the universal brand -sells more abroad than within Spain-, partly because of the pandemic. "Our work perspective has changed, we know the business better by getting out of the frenetic pace we had before, when we lived for enjoyment, for the event," says Palomo, who no longer intends to impress anyone. What does not mean that he wants to continue expressing himself every time he goes out, "but in another way," he says in an interview with this newspaper. «We are not growing as one more brand. The firm transcends what is simply fashion, it is a universe that speaks of freedom and acceptance in an organic way.

Palomo Spain wears the street of Jean Paul Gaultier

Five years in which he has given "an opportunity to people who had nowhere to dress" and has managed to unblock some mind, "which has been the most beautiful of these years", in which he can boast of having successfully paraded in Paris and New York when I was a newcomer to the industry. A marvel trained at the prestigious Central Saint Martins school who has become known to the general public after becoming a member of the jury of the 'Masters of Sewing' contest, where you can enjoy a «boy without too much artifice, original, close and tender". This is how the young dressmaker timidly defines himself, who is grateful that the television program has taken him three months away from the town where he maintains his workshop.

“I have a simple and normal life and that distracts me a bit from day to day. You feel for a moment a celebrity, that I do not consider myself at all », she adds quickly. His role is kinder than that of his fellow jury members (Lorenzo Caprile and María Escoté), but it is not studied at all: «I have never scolded my team in my life. I'm not going to do it there. I'd rather be good than bad."

Themes

Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris, Spain
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