The classics are reinterpreted, the clothes are informal... The basic headlines of the great Italian date for those who only have two minutes
Daniel Garcia Lopez
. Visions like this are common these days in Milan but, for some reason, this triggered the melancholy of my companion next door: "My goodness, what a pathetic business we are in," he sighed. I replied that arrogance seemed worse to me than audacity, that it all depends on the spirit in which you dress, but luckily the parade started and we didn't have to continue a rather cumbersome debate. So there it is: while you decide if fashion is good because it allows its followers to dress as extravagant as they want, or absurd, since it leads them to ridicule, we give them a couple of brushstrokes about what three days give of themselves. parades.1. Some call it dialogue between genders and others call it confusion.
without hesitation his inheritance of good sense. The Florentine house has taken the treasures of an elegant grandmother out of the trunk (astrakhan coats, silk blouses, seventies suits), has put them on some grandchildren who could have participated in Death in Venice, and has slapped whoever I would have forgotten that, for a time, the interlocking Gs were synonymous with political incorrectness.
2. The intrigues about who will replace Frida Giannini at the helm of Gucci have more traction than an HBO series
This desire for controversy is added to the rampant speculation that exists about who will replace Giannini, whose appointment is rumored to be made public next week, and that this show has not helped to clarify. At the end of the show, the creative team that Giannini assembled came out to greet him, but it is almost certain that it will be a name from abroad who will occupy his chair, and the bets range from "a semi-unknown Italian" (latest news) to designers as diverse as Riccardo Tisci, Joseph Altuzarra or Tom Ford himself, who made Gucci's first big takeoff and, in fact, was the one who hired the outgoing designer. In a triple carambola of oblivion, the show's soundtrack was the music of A Single Man, the 2009 film Ford directed. So add gossip (the unofficial hobby of the fashion world) to the gender debate (the hot for the world at large) and you'll get the idea: in a season that won't go down in the annals of fashion history, the Gucci collection has been like getting a serving of popcorn at the movies.3. Now nature is the most
Not only because the Milan Expo, which opens in May, has sustainability as its flag, just as the one in Seville had real estate speculation. The greats of men's fashion have decided that what is natural, in addition to being fundamental as a criterion for the production of garments, is perfect as a) a protest tool, and b) a legitimate show. In an appeal to sustainability, on Friday Ermenegildo Zegna planted an orchard in an industrial space and, amid sounds of the jungle, paraded his models on a dirt floor (the trees had been transplanted from the Oasis Zegna, the natural park that the brand owns in Piedmont, where they will have been returned by now). Ferragamo designed a wooded landscape to serve as the background for flocks of birds patterned on a coat, an owl on a coat, and even a zebra embroidered on the back of a parka. The Moncler guys weren't dressed in anything that suggested an eco-friendly aesthetic, but their boys used trees planted along the catwalk to rip off their pants and hang up their coats (and show off the graphic collection their designer, Thom had devised). Browne). All this will not help to change the opinion of those who think that fashion is a circus, but it is candy for anyone who appreciates a good show.4. The future is tracksuit
"This is sportive sartoriale", they explained to us during the presentation of Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian who has made cashmere and corporate social responsibility the two (unexpected) reasons for his success. The Italian was referring to what he does best, a harmonious mix of clothing with sporty elements, in natural tones and extremely soft textures, but that concise definition could be applied to 90% of the collections we've seen in Milan so far. From Emporio Armani (whose best clothes were a nod to what an elegant orthodox would call loungewear) to Tod's and Hogan, to Jil Sander, who presented the first collection of his new designer, Rodolfo Paglialunga (new, moreover, in men's clothing). Not that one is very in favor of the tracksuit, but know that all intermediate points between the formal and the casual, and all the possible combinations of its elements, will be what you will see hanging on the hangers of the coming autumn-winter.5 . Those who have come to become modern, there is the door
"I'm too old to try to be cool", he told us about the collection that he had presented hours before. The clothes reinterpreted his classics from recent seasons (damask tuxedos, sweatshirts with trimmings, T-shirts with digital prints and other examples of the point where Sicilian baroque and the street meet). At the end of the catwalk, a living tableau made up of a family that is part village and part Viscontian, immobile, watching the comings and goings of the models. It is not an anecdote: for months, with the hashtag #dgfamily, designers have posted photos of families from all over the world on their Instagram, which they themselves have sent, as if they were advertisements for the firm. A more humane and comforting version of the typical image of blond children playing in palaces that fashion tends to sell as families, and which of course fits better into the noisy and Mediterranean character of Dolce & Gabbana. Of course, before the parade started, the music warned us. The background music began with Britney Spears, continued in crescendo with Bonnie Tyler and, when the sentimental duet of Pavarotti and Lionel Richie arrived with which the show began, everything was already said: go home if you want to be hip.
About the firm
Daniel García López
He is the director of ICON, the men's magazine of EL PAÍS, and ICON Design, the decoration, art and architecture supplement. He is specialized in culture, fashion and lifestyle. She has been part of EL PAÍS since 2013. Before that, she worked at Vanidad and Vanity Fair, and published in Elle, Marie Claire and El País Semanal. He is the author of the collection 'Myths of fashion'.
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